How to Treat Clogged Pores: 5 Evidence-Based Tips (Plus a Few Myths to Drop)

Clogged pores are one of the most common skin complaints, and they come with a lot of folk wisdom attached: steam them open, scrub them clean, flush out toxins with water. Some of that advice is harmless, some is outdated, and some can irritate skin and make congestion worse. Here's how clogged pores actually form, what the research supports, and when it's time to see a dermatologist.

What's Really Clogging Your Pores

A pore is the opening of a hair follicle paired with an oil gland. A clog forms when sebum (skin oil) and dead skin cells that don't shed normally pack into that opening. Hormones, genetics, and oil production all influence this, which is why it often starts around puberty and can flare with hormonal shifts.

Two details from the original post need correcting:

Dirt isn't the main culprit. Blackheads look dark because the plug of oil and dead cells oxidizes when it meets air, not because it's full of dirt. Washing harder doesn't prevent them, and over-washing can leave skin irritated and oilier.
Pores don't open and close. They have no muscles. Steam can soften oil and debris inside a pore, which makes cleansing or extraction easier, but it doesn't "dilate" anything, and cold water doesn't "close" anything.

The Different Kinds of Bumps

Blackheads (open comedones): clogged pores open to the surface, with an oxidized, dark plug.
Whiteheads (closed comedones): clogged pores covered by a thin layer of skin, so they look like small flesh-colored or white bumps.
Papules and pustules: inflamed acne, meaning red, tender bumps (papules) or bumps with pus (pustules).
Milia: this one is different. Milia are tiny keratin-filled cysts trapped under the skin, and they aren't clogged pores. Cleveland Clinic describes them as trapped dead skin cells forming cysts beneath the surface, harmless, and often resolving on their own.

Treating all of these the same way is a common mistake, so it helps to know which you have.

Tip 1: Cleanse Gently, Not Aggressively

Wash your face morning and night with a gentle, non-stripping cleanser, and always remove makeup before bed. Double cleansing (an oil-based cleanser followed by a water-based one) can help if you wear heavy makeup or water-resistant sunscreen, but it's optional for most people. Choose products labeled non-comedogenic. Skip harsh scrubs and over-washing, since irritation can make pores look bigger and trigger more oil.

Tip 2: Use an Active Ingredient That Works

This is where most of the real progress comes from, and it takes consistency.

Retinoids (like adapalene, available over the counter): American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) guidelines include topical retinoids as a core acne treatment. They speed up skin cell turnover so dead cells don't pack into pores. A randomized trial comparing adapalene gel with tretinoin found similar lesion reductions, with adapalene causing less irritation.
Salicylic acid (a BHA): it's oil-soluble, so it can work inside the pore, and a systematic review of topical acne treatments supports it for mild-to-moderate acne and clogged pores.
Benzoyl peroxide: better for inflamed pimples than for plain blackheads, since it targets acne-related bacteria.

Introduce one new active at a time, start a few nights a week, and give any routine 8 to 12 weeks before judging it. Retinoids make skin more sun-sensitive, so use sunscreen daily. If you're pregnant or planning to be, ask a doctor before using retinoids or strong acids.

Tip 3: Exfoliate Gently (Chemical Beats Scrubbing)

Chemical exfoliants (AHAs like glycolic or lactic acid, and BHA like salicylic acid) loosen the bonds between dead skin cells. Physical scrubs and brushes can irritate skin, especially if you have inflamed acne, so go easy. More isn't better. Two to three times a week is plenty for most people, and less if your skin stings.

Steaming is optional, not necessary. A warm compress or a steamy shower can soften debris before cleansing, but be careful about heat, since very hot water or a facial steamer held too close can irritate skin, especially if you have rosacea or sensitive skin.

Tip 4: Leave Extractions and Milia to Professionals

Squeezing or picking pushes bacteria and debris deeper, causes inflammation, and can lead to scarring or dark marks. A dermatologist or licensed esthetician can perform comedone extractions safely, and chemical peels can help some people.

For milia, squeezing doesn't work at all, because the cyst sits under an intact layer of skin. Cleveland Clinic notes they're harmless and usually go away on their own, and that a provider can remove them with a needle or freeze them if they bother you. A topical retinoid may help prevent new ones, though I'd leave removal to a professional.

Tip 5: Support Your Skin With Everyday Habits

Choose non-comedogenic makeup and sunscreen, and remove them at night.
Keep your hands off your face and clean things that touch it, like phone screens and pillowcases.
Wear daily sunscreen. One claim I couldn't verify is that sun exposure increases oil production, but sunscreen matters anyway, since UV worsens the dark marks acne leaves behind, and retinoids and acids increase sun sensitivity.
Eat balanced meals. Research on diet and acne suggests high-glycemic foods may worsen breakouts, while the evidence on dairy is weaker and inconsistent. The idea that water "flushes out toxins" through the pores isn't supported, though staying hydrated is still sensible.
Manage stress and sleep. Stress can trigger flares in some people, though it's one factor among many.

When to See a Dermatologist

Most clogged pores respond to a consistent routine, but get professional help if:

Nothing has improved after 8 to 12 weeks of consistent treatment
You have deep, painful, or cystic bumps, which can scar and rarely respond to over-the-counter care
You're getting dark marks or scars
Your skin is red, burning, or peeling from products
Adult acne appears suddenly or comes with irregular periods, excess facial hair, or hair thinning, which can signal a hormonal condition
You're not sure what the bumps are (rosacea, folliculitis, and other conditions can look like clogged pores)
You have a large number of milia or they appear suddenly
You're pregnant, breastfeeding, or planning a pregnancy and want to use active ingredients

The Bottom Line

You can't open or close pores, and you can't scrub them clean, but you can keep them clear with gentle cleansing, a well-chosen active like a retinoid or salicylic acid, moderate exfoliation, and patience. Leave the squeezing to professionals, treat milia as the different problem they are, and see a dermatologist if your skin isn't improving.

References

American Academy of Dermatology. Updated Guidelines for the Management of Acne Vulgaris (2024). https://www.aad.org/news/updated-guidelines-acne-management
Efficacy of Topical Treatments in the Management of Mild-to-Moderate Acne Vulgaris: A Systematic Review. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC11081083/
Nyirady, J. et al. (2001). Randomized controlled trial of the tolerability, safety, and efficacy of adapalene gel 0.1% and tretinoin microsphere gel 0.1% for the treatment of acne vulgaris. Cutis. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/11845943/
Cleveland Clinic. Milia (Milk Spots): Causes & Treatment. https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/diseases/17868-milia
Acibadem Health Point. Pores: An Evidence-Based Guide for Patients. https://www.acibademhealthpoint.com/blog/pores-an-evidence-based-guide-for-patients/
The Healthy. 11 Myths and Truths About Large Pores (dermatologist commentary). https://www.thehealthy.com/skin-health/large-pores-myths-facts/
Bowe, W.P., Joshi, S.S., & Shalita, A.R. (2010). Diet and acne. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 63(1), 124–141. https://www.jaad.org/article/S0190-9622(09)00967-0/abstract

This article is for general information only and isn't a substitute for personalized medical advice. If your skin is painful, scarring, or not improving, see a board-certified dermatologist.